Painting Tips for Model Yachts Building
Categories:
Builder’s Corner | Hulls
By Dave Acree
Is painting your boat one of the things you like least? Tired of the runs and those little dust specks miring up your work? Well, here are some ideas and tips I got from Jim Meister on spray painting.
Painting a flat horizontal surface is not too hard. But boat hulls are curved which makes the job more difficult. First, spray paint hates moving air. The best time to paint is in the early morning when the air is calm. Second, make sure the surface of the hull is clean. Fill in all pin holes (I hate pin holes, there is always a few who escape), wipe off the hull with a lent-free cloth. I use a slightly damp towel and WATCH OUT FOR STATIC ELECTRICITY! Cleaning a hull can create this pest which attracts dust, a damp cloth stops this but you don't want a wet hull either.
Now the interesting stuff. Most of the spray paint used is Enamel and when it is applied, it drys from the inside out. Because of this, too much spraying causes it to run. On the first coat, spray all the corners and edges first then a very light coat over all and then wait.
Enamel needs something to get a hold of so it can start to dry. After a few minutes spray on the second coat, a little heavier then stop and wait. What you are doing is giving the paints something to stick and absorb into, itself. Since boat hulls are made of fiberglass or kevlar which don't allow the paint to absorb into, we give it itself.
After a few minutes for the second coat to semi-dry the third coat is applied heavier. Cover the hull with the paint'color. If all is going well, the fourth spray coat should be the final coat. Now comes the secret. To get that nice even coat that looks great, this is what Jim showed me. When you start your final coat, spray the paint to where it has a wet gloss. Don't over spray and cause the paint to run. Just keep your eye on the hull and the spray pattern moving. Nice and even until the paint's surface becomes a wet gloss.
Once done check your work. If a spot needs at little spray, give it now while the paint is wet and STOP! If a speck of dust lands on your hull during painting, leave it. It will probably come off when the paint drys.
When done, put the hull in a dust-free area and let it set there for 2 to 3 days. This will give the paint a chance to dry hard. If you would like to practice spray painting, do it on a curve piece of fiberglass or plastic. Also, between coats or if the spray button starts to clog, clean it. Hang a old cloth from your belt to clean with. It makes it easer to do with one hand. I did the above painting steps after I watch Jim do them on my first 36/600 hull and my attempt on my second hull came out fine! I hope this helps when you paint your next boat.
Is painting your boat one of the things you like least? Tired of the runs and those little dust specks miring up your work? Well, here are some ideas and tips I got from Jim Meister on spray painting.
Painting a flat horizontal surface is not too hard. But boat hulls are curved which makes the job more difficult. First, spray paint hates moving air. The best time to paint is in the early morning when the air is calm. Second, make sure the surface of the hull is clean. Fill in all pin holes (I hate pin holes, there is always a few who escape), wipe off the hull with a lent-free cloth. I use a slightly damp towel and WATCH OUT FOR STATIC ELECTRICITY! Cleaning a hull can create this pest which attracts dust, a damp cloth stops this but you don't want a wet hull either.
Now the interesting stuff. Most of the spray paint used is Enamel and when it is applied, it drys from the inside out. Because of this, too much spraying causes it to run. On the first coat, spray all the corners and edges first then a very light coat over all and then wait.
Enamel needs something to get a hold of so it can start to dry. After a few minutes spray on the second coat, a little heavier then stop and wait. What you are doing is giving the paints something to stick and absorb into, itself. Since boat hulls are made of fiberglass or kevlar which don't allow the paint to absorb into, we give it itself.
After a few minutes for the second coat to semi-dry the third coat is applied heavier. Cover the hull with the paint'color. If all is going well, the fourth spray coat should be the final coat. Now comes the secret. To get that nice even coat that looks great, this is what Jim showed me. When you start your final coat, spray the paint to where it has a wet gloss. Don't over spray and cause the paint to run. Just keep your eye on the hull and the spray pattern moving. Nice and even until the paint's surface becomes a wet gloss.
Once done check your work. If a spot needs at little spray, give it now while the paint is wet and STOP! If a speck of dust lands on your hull during painting, leave it. It will probably come off when the paint drys.
When done, put the hull in a dust-free area and let it set there for 2 to 3 days. This will give the paint a chance to dry hard. If you would like to practice spray painting, do it on a curve piece of fiberglass or plastic. Also, between coats or if the spray button starts to clog, clean it. Hang a old cloth from your belt to clean with. It makes it easer to do with one hand. I did the above painting steps after I watch Jim do them on my first 36/600 hull and my attempt on my second hull came out fine! I hope this helps when you paint your next boat.